Kiyomizudera & the end of my Kyoto day 1

I did reach Kiyomizudera, about 15 minutes after my true encounter with the geisha. The rain started pouring once I reached the temple and although this prevented me from taking heaps more photos, I liked the rain’s effect on the whole place – it evoked a mystical feeling that made me calm and relaxed.

Kiyomizudera is a Unesco World Heritage site which literally means Pure Water Temple. Its name was due to the waterfall within the complex and in the Edo period, it was a practice to jump-off the temple, for if you survive your wish will be granted. It is prohibited now, but there were very few casualties because there is lush vegetation below that would cushion the fall.

Overall, I was really elated with how my first day in Kyoto , travelling alone, turned out.

I capped the day by eating this lovely bowl of noodles from one of the restos inside the Kyoto Station. At 800 yen on a really hungry stomach after a full walking day, it’s priceless.

Memoirs of a Geisha stalker

After my half-failed, near-encounter-with-a-geisha experience, I proceeded walking towards Kiymozu-dera. Although this is an uphill walk, I really enjoyed it because the streets you pass by are really interesting – lined with curio shops, pottery & antique stores, souvenir items & other stuff. I really hate it when you’re pressed for time when traveling, because you do not have the luxury to actually explore the area. I did try my best to observe what I can and take heaps of photos ~ and boy am I thankful that I did this.
As I was taking a snap shot of one of the side streets I passed by, I saw a geisha again! A mum stopped her to take a photo with her son. Ding-ding-ding!!! This is my opportunity, and boy did I grab it by the balls. I hurriedly dashed down (so much so that I startled the bloke walking with the geisha) and got my camera ready, and asked the poor ojisan (who was already a few steps away) to take my photo.

In my to do list in Japan:
Take a photo with a geisha -- check!

Mission accomplished.

Mission half accomplished

Murayama Park

From Yasaka Shrine, I “simply” followed the map, passing by the different sights on my way to Kiyomizu-dera and praying and hoping that the heavens will hear me and somehow a geisha will come my way.

I sometimes took my time, snapping photos or getting poor Japanese tourists to snap my picture for me (I was lugging a tripod, but couldn’t be bothered to set it up). At the end of the Yasaka Shrine is the Maruyama Park, and along the south side of this park, at the foot of the mountain is the Choraku-ji Temple (apparently this has got a beautiful garden as well, I wouldn’t know though because once again I didn’t bother entering – I was keen on getting to Kiyomzu-dera before it closes down).

Choraku-ji Temple

Kodaji Temple

Kept on walking, passing by narrow streets of the Kodaiji district where I saw more temples (just took photos of them, not really sure what they’re called).Then I saw the gates to the Kodaiji Temple, got in, took some photos. From here, it’s kind of hard to miss the adjacent Ryozen Kannon, with the big image of Buddha.

Ryozen Kannon

(one of the temples I passed by, don't know what it's called)

By this time I was really exhausted, having been walking under the blazing and humid 36 degrees since early morning. It’s almost 3 pm and I still have a long way to go. It is also then when I talked to two young Japanese girls (who were doing the walk as well but doing it in style, in stiletto heels to boot) and somehow we were able to communicate with each other despite their lack of English skills and my lack of Japanese. When they saw the look of disbelief when I realized I’ve still got a long way, they cheerfully exclaimed, with matching raised fists to encourage me – “Fight-o!” How many times have I heard that line in the many Jdoramas I’ve watched? So amusing!

Anyway, I trod on, and I remember being busy with juggling too many things – walking, fanning air to my face while holding an umbrella, and making sure to that I don’t stray on the wrong path. When I looked up, there she was, all dressed up, walking and taking small steps, skin white as snow and lips red as blood – so beautiful and unreal – the geisha that I have read about and seen so many times in movies, TVs, documentaries. It was all so sudden that I could only

take a photo of her back! I also failed to get a photo with her, as there was no one around to take the shot! For some reason, there aren’t too many people at that time, whereas earlier on, there were heaps of tourists like me everywhere. How unfortunate!

My mission in Gion

1) The Kyoto National Museum of Modern Art
2) Yasaka Shrine sign and 3) entrance

After Ginkakuji, I’ve realized I can’t possibly do all the recommended walks – so I made a decision on the places that I absolutely must see. Definitely on top of my list is Gion, the old geisha district – I wasn’t about to leave Kyoto without seeing a real geisha. I’m on a mission!

I hopped on a bus (I’ve got bus pass worth 500 yen, which is like a ride-all-you-can deal) and mistakenly got off at the Kyoto National Museum of Modern Art. I was going to actually go inside and view the exhibits (it’s really, really hot and the museum was air-conditioned) but then there was an entrance fee and I didn’t want to waste any more time, lest I miss the geishas (I did stay for like 10 minutes and relieved myself from the humidity outside). The old tourist guide told me they usually appear at about 4 p.m and I had a lot of walking to do.

I rode the bus again, this time stopping in the correct bus stop. I looked up beyond my umbrella and saw this bright orange colored shrine which turned out to be Yasaka Shrine. While inside, I checked the map and saw that I can reach Kiyomizu-dera Temple at the end of this trail, and at the same time pass by at least 6 shrines or temples of the way. I braced myself for more hours of walking.

The Silver Pavilion that's not really silver

After the Higashi Honganji visit, I went back to Kyoto Station where the Foreign Tourist Information Center is, and asked what recommendations they have for someone who’s staying only for two days. The nice lady gave me a Kyoto Walking Tour Map.

Initially, I thought I could do at least two walking tours per day – based on this map, it only takes like 1 – 3 hours per area, and you get to cover 3-5 tourist spots in one go. I thought to myself, “Awesome, I can cover a lot in my two days!” But I was so wrong. I forgot what my friend told me, that when the Japanese say “5 minutes walking time”, that means it’s 5 minutes for them and Japanese people walk really, really fast – so their 5 minutes is actually 15 minutes. Also, when you look at the map, they all look so close to each other, but in reality, they are not – this I discovered when I attempted to do the Along the old canal or Path to Philosophy Walk.

I boarded the bus and reached first stop, which is the Ginkakuji Temple. Again, under the scorching heat of the sun (and I am unwisely wearing jeans), I walked uphill to where Ginkakuji is.

Ginkakuji is the Temple of the Silver Pavilion – just click here to learn more about it. Yes, there is a Golden Pavilion, built by the grandfather of the person of who built the silver pavilion. Anyway, this temple was supposed to be covered in silver leaf, but this never really happened for some reason, yet the name remained somehow. Unfortunately, they were in the middle of repairs and maintenance so I never really got to see the actual temple. The gardens within the temple were really, really lovely though.

the entrance

Ginkakuji undergoing repairs

Kyoto & the art of travelling by yourself :)

I normally would balk at the thought of traveling alone - I don’t know if it’s a me thing or a cultural thing, but I always thought that traveling alone is scary because you’d be vulnerable to dodgy people or at the very least be lonely because you’ve got no one to talk to while traveling.

I had to put those fears aside though because I’ve no choice but to travel alone from Tokyo to Kyoto. So, on Tuesday night August 5, after a long day at Tokyo Disneyland, off I rode the midnight bus which would get me to Kyoto at 6 am in the morning Wednesday.

Kyoto is the country’s old capital, famous for old temples and shrines and is considered home of geishas. It would take you maybe a week to visit all the tourist places in Tokyo , but I’ve only got 2 days so I have to choose which ones I really want to go to..

Although majority does not speak English, their tourist information packs are really, really user friendly, so generally you shouldn’t have any difficulty going around. Unlike Tokyo where subway is the way to go around, it’s best to take the bus in Kyoto for sightseeing – just make sure to open your ears for the key words – coz they do announce the stops, although sometimes in Japanese only. What’s neat about it is that most of the tourist places are lumped into one area – so you can walk from one place to another easily. By easily though, I mean this loosely, as it was 36 degrees when I was there (quite a shock to my body clock since it’s winter where I came from, so essentially it was from 6 degrees to 36 degrees) – and the constant walking under the blistering rays of the sun could get to you. The information center also has recommended walks – they’ve got a walking map, a bus route map, and a map of Kyoto – and all proved to be handy for me. You can take the recommended walks or make out something of your own based on your interest, curiosity and level of energy.

I was there by 6am, but the tourist information center for foreigners won’t open til 10am – I freshened up and had breakfast (cream puffs – the best I’ve tasted, and I’m a big cream puff fan) and when 8.30 hit, I went straight to the information center for local tourists to get a map and a bus pass. I didn’t want to waste time, so I went straight to Higashi Honganji- which is about 2-3 blocks away from the Kyoto Station.

Higashi Honganji or, 'The Eastern Temple of the Original Vow is a Shin Buddhism temple, along with Nishi Honganji or 'The Western Temple of the Original Vow'. A nice old man, who works as a tourist guide and therefore speaks good English, greeted me and gave me an information pamphlet about the area. He also pointed out the must see temples and places in Kyoto.

There are two interesting things in this temple - which is that the Founder's Hall is the largest wooden constructions in the world, and there was a display of a hair rope, used to transport the tmber and hang the huge beams - hair was interlaced with hemp to make them much stronger.